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In spring of 2019, American artist Sandy O’Connor was awarded a Copley Society of Art Visual Arts Fellowship to work at the Fine Arts Work Center in Provincetown, Massachusetts from Aug. 26 through Sept. 22, 2019. Follow along as she records her time spent in this historic art colony. Her focus is the subject of climate change and its impact on the coastal landscape of the Outer Cape. By researching, sketching and painting the natural beauty of vulnerable landscapes, she hopes to engage others in their protection and support efforts already in progress.

Weather: 67/57, Sunny

Yesterday I spent time with a friend scouting out a few other sites on my list of fragile landscapes on the Outer Cape. One of them was the Herring River in Wellfleet and Truro, Massachusetts which encompasses nearly 1,000 acres and over 6 miles of waterways. But specifically the dike on Chequessett Neck Road. Historically, the river supported a vibrant coastal river ecosystem and one of the largest nurseries for commercial and recreational fisheries in the Gulf of Maine. Wellfleet Town reports from the late 1800’s indicate that more than 200,000 river herring were netted annually from the Herring River. It is currently one of the largest tidally-restricted estuaries in the northeastern United States.

According to the Friends of Herring River’s web site, a non-profit in South Wellfleet, “The ecosystem was dramatically altered in 1909 when efforts to control mosquitos resulted in the construction of a dike across the river’s mouth at Chequessett Neck in Wellfleet. Designed to block the flow of ocean tides and salt water, the dike had immediate and devastating effects on the natural and social values of the upstream river and wetlands. Circulation of salt water was essentially eliminated. This caused toxic water quality and fish kills from acidic leaching, closure of downstream shellfish beds, sinking of the marsh by up to four feet, and loss of function as a nursery for commercial and recreational fisheries.

The Herring River Restoration Project, which began 10 years ago and is still going through permitting and fundraising, will restore natural tidal flow to the estuary by replacing the old dike at the river’s mouth with a new bridge. This will reverse the severe damage that has occurred over the past 100 years and bring back the critical ecological, economic and social benefits that a healthy and productive tidal estuary provides. It is timely that we undertake this work now because it will enhance reliance to climate change and sea level rise. Without restoration conditions in the marsh will continue to worsen.”

Benefits Of Restoration

The site goes on to say that, “Completion of this project will bring significant benefits and will serve as a model for restoring other estuaries in Massachusetts and America’s coast. Reconnecting the Herring River to Cape Cod Bay and the Gulf of Maine will restore the natural coastal food web that numerous fish, birds and other wildlife depend on for their survival. Restoring the estuary is an important step to help increase fish populations and revive the region’s commercial and recreational fisheries.

Expanding harvestable shellfish beds will help support Wellfleet’s economy, which is heavily dependent on the Cape’s $10.8 million shellfishing industry. Water quality will be significantly improved, allowing extensive areas of shellfish beds that are now closed due to bacteria contamination to be reopened for harvest.Tourism is a major economic engine in Wellfleet and surrounding communities. In Wellfleet alone, the tourism industry contributes nearly $11 million annually to the local community and supports jobs. People from around the globe are drawn to Cape Cod for its natural beauty, healthy environment and scenic vistas. The overgrown and degraded Herring River estuary is a severely impaired natural asset. Once restored with clean flowing water, open salt marsh vistas and abundant fish and wildlife, more people will enjoy the region and its amenities.

Over the past decade, numerous partners have worked to develop restoration plans and are firmly committed to seeing this project completed. Engineering design and environmental review are well underway to prepare the Project for construction. Preliminary cost estimates range from $40-$50 million over 5 years to build a new bridge and two secondary dikes, elevate 1.7 miles of roads above restored tides and implement measures to protect low-lying structures from flood waters. The Project received state and federal approval of its Environmental Impact Report in 2016. Permitting and fundraising, which are expected to take two to three years, began in 2017.”

A walk along Duck Harbor Beach, a check in back at Ballston Beach and a tasty picnic lunch at Mac’s Seafood in Wellfleet Harbor

Prior to going down to the the dike area at Chequessett Neck off of Great Island Trail, we walked along Duck Harbor Beach just north of there on Cape Cod Bay. It was remarkable how many smooth, rounded stones covered long stretches of the beach. There was about a 2 ft. rise sand bank right down the middle of the beach going parallel to the water with heavy bunches of  sea weed on top. We assumed it had churned up onto the beach after the Cape was lightly swiped by Hurricane Dorian 2 days earlier.

All that hiking and rock scavenging made us hungry. So off we went to Mac’s Seafood down the road at Wellfleet Harbor. I went for the clam strip platter, fries and cold slaw and my friend went for the fish & chips make with fresh cod. It did not disappoint! Next we made a quick pit stop to look at Ballston Beach breach 2 days after Hurricane Dorian to see the difference a day made from when I blogged and posted pictures online the day before on 9/8. The difference was striking. Calm seas and sunbathers lolling about on a picture perfect day! 

I spent today with my husband taking in the morning vibe of P’town after Labor Day. Had a great breakfast at Connie’s Bakery at the Aquarium Marketplace. Great spot to people and dog watch! Then after  little retail therapy, we took a ride through some   neighborhoods and ended up at Race Point Beach where we sat on the beach and took in a glorious blue sky and felt grateful for every minute.

Cheers ~Sandy

For more information about the Herring River Restoration Project:

www.friendsoftheherringriver.org